How to Remove Fan Clutch 2004 Ford Ranger 4.0

coopab

I've had to search three Ford/Forest fire fighter related forums on this affected and found much misleading selective information, some completely misguided, new suggestions just misguided (IMHO). My 1999 Ranger with 4.0 has the following molded into the plastic of the fan shroud. "4.0L-RH THREAD ON Devotee Clasp". That bit of information is critical but not enough. I read suggestions that said RH Thread means loosen it by turning rooter prehend nut CLOCKWISE. Not so. Clockwise is how you turn it when putt it back happening the water pump.

Several people suggested variations on jackhammer and air cheat practical to the clutch pedal fan nut. It may work but unless one is planning to supplant the grip with a parvenu one (or an electric one) I wouldn't take the come upon damaging the nut with air tools.

I rented the clench fan removal carpenter's kit from AutoZone. Information technology took me two tries as the first outfit I was two-handed had obviously been used the wrong way previously. The 36mm spanner that is applied to the clutch fan nut was dissipate to 39mm. When I went back and compared information technology to a new-sprung set, the 3mm difference was frank.

IT took a little trivial but once I puzzle out how to hold the large (58mm) squarish wring out in situ I put the 36mm spanned in a position that allowed me to hit it firmly with a dead blow pounding. Impact without less danger to the clutch winnow Nut.

I had been completely unsuccessful in loosening the nut by my powerful arms, but a few well affected blows with the dead blow hammer and voilà. Now it's on to the rest of the project. water pump, timing concatenation and chain guides, head gaskets, etc. :icon_bounceblue:

RonD

Yes, my '94 4.0l fan clutch is the "normal" lefty loosy, righty tighty

In general if you start the locomotive and then squinched IT off and look at the fan blade which always way it is spinning is the direction to loosen it.

Threads are done that direction so a loose nut would tend to constrain itself from torque vs loosen itself, so watch out the blade and you will never be in dubiety

adsm08

Also, I use the air chisel on the corners of the crackers all the clock time, and unless I am going the wrong way I have yet to do significant damage to one. You just have to not beryllium a moron about it.

Doofy

Pulseless-fumble hammers are very handy only the big rubber mallet provides greater seismic disturbance with less risk of collateral terms.

firenexx

Back when I did this, I had to replace the pee pump and the fan clutch. The ball was insanely tight and I didn't sustain an air chisel.
Thusly I took off the smooth water pump, pulley, clutch, fan assembly.
I got a really wide emery wheel (a clustering of them, actually) and spent about 2 hours cutting the pump off so and so I could take the fan off of the get hold of (the just office I requisite to re-use.)

:facepalm:

notaprob

I had trouble replacing my water pump also. However, I was able to take the water pump off with the rooter still attached and I put-upon the bench to handle IT in place while I took it apart.

Destroyer000

fan clutch tool? fundamentally need to make 2 pieces of flat bar with a snick to pluck along the kookie and honourable hold them while you spin the fan off.

How to Remove Fan Clutch 2004 Ford Ranger 4.0

coopab

New Phallus

RonD

Well-Known Member

adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey

Doofy

Member

firenexx

Sunrise Member

notaprob

Extremity

Destroyer000

January 2009 STOTM Winner

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